rallied for chinatown

posted in travelog


chinatownSo I was draggin’ my feet this morning after sleeping almost 11 hours last night. Maybe it was the benadryl I took at 11:30 when I woke up with itchy hands, in my experience, a pre-cursor to hives. I did eat three mangosteens last night after dinner. I finally rallied about 9 a.m. and took off on my daily commute, 2 skytrains and a riverboat ride, to chinatown for the big doin’s. It was SO worth it, mostly cause I stumbled on some alley temples where monks were blessing the dog for the parade - this would be the kindof Chinese-Parade-Dog costume with guys inside running around looking like a giant caterpiller. The monks were chanting with one keeping time with a wooden drum that looked like a hollow whale about twice the size of a watermellon. The chants were amplified to permeate the whole neighborhood which made for an amazing atmosphere.

Heading out to the main drag I decided to follow a throng of Chinese, most wearing red in honor of the holiday. I figured if that many people were queueing up it must be for something good. So many of us were funneling through narrow gates that it felt a little like the Haj or a British soccer match in that any moment the mob could have panicked and crushed someone. Once inside I couldn’t really see what the goal was. There was lots of incense-burning and candle-lighting but no beautiful buddha or giant shrine. Much more stark and functional with the feel of a makeshift church set up in a school auditorium so I funneled right back out on the street. Wandering back into the pedestrian-only alleys I came upon a similar scene only much more chaotic with blazing hot open fires for lighting incense, pictured above.


thai buddha in chinatown

The highlight of my day was finding this stunning buddha shrine in a temple that was very Chinese in it’s architecture and decorations but the Buddha was all Thai. I actually circled back to take a few more pics with the tripod since I’m notorious for shooting fuzzy pictures.

I filled up a Gig chip in 2 days and am now killing time while I back up everything I’ve shot so far onto cds. Tomorrow I’m off to Kathmandu where my first stop is Thamel, a tourist ghetto not unlike Thailand’s Khao San Road. I am assuming it’s a good and insulated spot from which to assess Kathmandu’s current tension level. Next post, from Nepal - the world’s only Hindu Kingdom… I think.

Sue Borchardt in Bangkok on January 29th, 2006 where it’s currently 93 degrees at 3 pm.

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