I think Susan and I are both finding Bhutan a completeley new kindof travel experience. First off, we’re on a tour. We have some flexibility in what we do but we have a driver and an English speaking guide so we have pretty much handled over control of everything - where we go, what we eat, etc… It’s actually a little nice. Our guide’s name is Kaphel which translates to Destined for Failure. really. He and our driver wear traditional Bhutanese attire which is kindof like a plaid dress with large white cuffs and high knee socks. I think we’d been in the country about 3 hours when Susan asked Kaphel what Bhutanese men wore under their “dresses”.

We’ve had pretty full days since arriving - today’s highlight being a 3 hour roundtrip hike up to view the Tiger’s Nest Monestery. Had we been game they would have taken us all the way up but having seen the rocks and sheer cliffs surrounding it I cannot image how one gets there without a rope and harness. We were totally content with our sun drenched alpine forest climb to a sunny cafe for tea and bisquits which for some reason they called a cafeteria. After lunch and a stop at a Dzong ruin, we drove an hour and a half through steep switchbacks to get to the capital city of Thimpu where we’ll spend two nights. Our hotels have been fabulous so far and have things like hot running water, down comforters, and hotwater bottles delivered to the room! I am a bit cooked right now and am having touble putting two words together so please ignore my typos and bad grammer. Internet access is not so great here so don’t worry if you don’t see much from me.

I’m pasting Susan’s impressions below. If there are discrepancies: my version is correct :) that hike was 3 hours!

Sue Borchardt in Thimpu Bhutan. February 17, 2006 at 8:02 p.m.

Hi Everyone!
My last day in India was great — as I alluded to, I sat by the pool and enjoyed India/Ayruvedic massage stuff - it was delightful. The flight to Bhutan was easy and uneventful and it was so much fun seeing Sue walk across the tarmac in Katmandu! On the way in we were treated to the awesome sight of Mt. Everest and a few other giant peaks - we were flying right next to them - breathtaking. The airport in Bhutan is hard to describe - their architechture is so unique - think of a Swiss Chaelt with all sorts of wood cutouts and beautiful colors - it has to be the prettiest airport I’ve ever seen.

We were greeted by our guide Kafel Dorji and our drive Thimpel (I think!) Dorgi –Dorji is kind of like Smith here…they will be with us for the duration. Very nice young guys.

The Himalayan sun was shining and so warm - it was just spectacular. We made our way to a few temples and a spiral shaped museum housing all sorts of Buddhit tresasures. A few more stops to some truly breathtaking temples from the 1600 - the Buddhas, of course, are everywhere. (I feel like they shold have a bumper sticker taht says “Buddha Saves” )… Then to our lovely hotel in Paro - it was just so pretty. Our room was big with gorgeous wide-plank hardwood floors and lovely painted wood furniture. It tunred cold and rainy - but even that was nice!! We splet like babies.

After tea and eggs in the a.m we took off for a rather daunting hike that Sue and I madaged to whittle down a bit — instead of climbing to some ungodly hight to see a little temple, we talked our guide into just hiking up to the cafeteria - we were very excited when he agreed…but even that turned out to be an almost 2-hour high altitude hike. We took it slow and did pretty good. Lots of sun — so warm - we got a bit sun burned. The altitude medicine we are taking seems to working great. So, after tea and biscuts and lots of little dogs running around we descended and took another trip to a temple ruin. Lots of history here between Tibet and Bhutan…anyway - at the end of the day we drove an unbelievably winding road to the capitol town, Thimpu - it really is a nice sized town. Our hotel borders on luxurious. We were so excited about the bathtub — but the water kept coming out a discouraging yellow — so just a shower sufficed. Oh, I have to tell you about the running shower tally: Susan - 2; Sue - 0. I’ll keep you posted. Sue says I smell good enough for both of us!! She’s a great traveller and I’m taking lots of tips from her - but not the bathing tips…

So that’s all for now - it’s really just the most beautfiul place. Our guide is great. It’s just a wonderful vacation. Our guide - Kafel, has promised us some mornings of hour-long meditation sessions in ancient temples - I’m so excited about that.

I’m not spell checking - so please forgive me!!

So much love to all of you!!

more tomorrow,

susan

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